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Jack Martin

Colourist based in the Golden State who specialises in platinum tones. His clients include Hollywood stars and well-known figures.

What affordable item can't you live without?

I swear by a microfibre towel, or even a gentle tee to towel-dry your locks. Most people don’t realise how much stress a typical terrycloth towel can do, particularly for lightened or dyed strands. This one small change can really minimize flyaways and damage. A second budget-friendly essential is a large-gap comb, to use during washing. It safeguards your strands while removing knots and helps keep the health of the strands, particularly post-bleaching.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – made with advanced materials, with smart temperature control. Silver and light-coloured hair can become discolored or suffer heat stress without the right iron.

What style or process should you always avoid?

Self-applied color lifting. Internet videos often simplify it, but the truth is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients cause irreversible harm, break it off or end up with uneven tones that are extremely difficult to fix. I would also avoid chemical straightening processes on bleached or silver hair. These chemical systems are often excessively strong for weakened hair and can cause chronic issues or color changes.

Which typical blunder stands out?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their specific hair needs. A number of people misuse toning shampoo until their silver or blond hair looks flat and dull. A few overdo on high-protein masks and end up with stiff, brittle hair. A further common mistake is heat styling without protection. In cases where you employ flat irons, curling irons or blow dryers without a defensive spray or cream, – particularly on bleached locks – you’re going to see yellowing, dryness and breakage.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I also recommend scalp serums with caffeine or peptides to stimulate circulation and promote root strength. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo regularly helps eliminate impurities and allows products to perform better. Supplements such as Nutrafol or Viviscal Pro have also shown positive outcomes. They work internally to benefit externally by balancing body chemistry, anxiety and nutritional deficiencies.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, PRP therapy – where a personalized serum is applied – can be effective. Still, my advice is to consulting a skin or hair specialist initially. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to identify the source rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

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A Hair and Scalp Specialist

Trichologist and head of a renowned clinic services and items for shedding.

What’s your routine for trims and color?

I get my hair cut every 10 to 12 weeks, but will trim off splits at home bi-weekly to preserve strand health, and have color touches every two months.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Toppik hair fibres are absolutely amazing if you have areas of scalp visibility. These particles bond to your existing hair, and it comes in a assortment of tones, making it almost invisible. It was my go-to post-pregnancy when I had noticeable thinning – and also now while experiencing some significant shedding after having a bad infection previously. Since hair is non-vital, it’s the initial area to show decline when your diet is lacking, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

What justifies a higher investment?

If you have female pattern hair loss (FPHL), I’d say prescription hair-loss topicals. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an non-prescription item is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the most effective improvements. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It shows no real benefit. The whole thing stems from one small study done in 2015 that compared the effects of 2% minoxidil to rosemary oil. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for male pattern hair loss, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Likewise, mega-doses of biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so taking it is unlikely to do your hair any good, and it can affect thyroid test results.

Which error is most frequent?

I think the term “hair washing” should be changed to “scalp cleansing” – because the primary purpose of washing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s damaging to their locks, when in fact the contrary is accurate – especially if you have dandruff, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. If natural oils stay on the head, they break down and become inflammatory.

Unfortunately, what your scalp needs and what your hair likes don’t always align, so it’s a balancing act. Provided you wash delicately and manage wet locks gently, it is unlikely to cause damage.

Which options help with shedding?

With female pattern loss, minoxidil is essential. Scientific support is substantial and tends to work best when compounded with other hair-supportive actives. Should you wish to enhance minoxidil's benefits, or you simply don’t want to or can’t use it, you could try microneedling (see a dermatologist), and perhaps PRP or low-level laser therapy.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. Sometimes, the cause is transient – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will improve spontaneously. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the most common being ferritin (stored iron), vitamin B12 and vitamin D deficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus